Skincare

How to get rid of dark circles under eyes, according to skin experts

Erase them or embrace them.
How to get rid of dark circles under eyes according to skin experts
Matteo Valle

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Large, Saturn-like rings around the eyes are not unusual; some of us are just more prone to dark circles than others. Throw in lifestyle factors such as stress, lack of sleep and increased screen time and it's the perfect storm for bruised-looking eyes. So what can be done?

If you're keen to figure out exactly how to get rid of dark circles, you'll need to start by addressing the underlying cause. Is it lack of sleep or cold hard genetics ? And while eye creams can certainly help, they're too often held up as a fix-all solution when, in reality, their abilities can be somewhat limited where discolouration is concerned.

Ahead, we explore the many solutions for making dark circles look less obvious – and the best way to keep them at bay in the first place.

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What causes dark circles?

Loss of volume

One of the main reasons dark circles show up under our eyes is a loss of volume, which happens naturally as we age and results in more pronounced tear troughs – the groove that sits between the lower eye lid and the cheek.

Genetics

Some of us have a genetic disposition to produce excess pigment under our eyes. “Some ethnicities, such as Asian and south east Asians, can have hereditary hyperpigmentation and some individuals have a family history of puffy lower eyelids from fat prolapse,” explains Dr Maryam Zamani, an oculoplastic surgeon and creator of MZ Skin.

Too much screen time

In our digital world, we’re also spending long days staring at a screen – whether laptop, phone or television – and that can exacerbate dark circles. The more screen time we rack up, the more likely we are to strain our eyes, says Dr Zamani.

“Eyes tend to blink less when we're in front of a computer screen,” she explains. “This causes dryness and the blood vessels in the skin to dilate, creating a dark shadow around the eyes.”

Lifestyle factors

Dark circles can point to conditions regarding our health. They're one of the first signs that we're feeling run down or not getting enough of the essentials (sleep, water and nutrients, for example) as we need.

Are dark circles and eye bags the same thing?

Although we often use the terms dark circles and eye bags interchangeably, they are not the same thing. Dark circles are characterised by the darkening of the under-eye skin, while eye bags symbolise swelling around the eyes.

What is the best way to get rid of dark circles?

Sure, dark circles under the eyes can be frustrating and confidence crushing. However, they are not a dangerous condition, and should by no means define the way you view your appearance.

Before we get into the best ways to get rid of them, it's important to remember that some of us are more pre-disposed to dark circles and none of these methods can guarantee their complete eradication.

How to get rid of dark circles at a glance:
  1. Focus on getting good quality sleep
  2. Restore moisture to the area
  3. Invest in a retinol eye cream
  4. Introduce caffeine into your skincare
  5. Chill the area
  6. Check your diet for deficiencies
  7. You could consider polynucleotides or filler
  8. Brighten the area with highlighter
  9. Get to grips with concealing and colour correcting
  10. Wear SPF around the eyes
  11. Take anti-histamines
  12. Try the tea bag treatment
  13. Embrace them

1. Focus on getting good quality sleep

Start by working on your sleep routine where you can. This could include establishing an earlier and more regular bedtime and avoiding caffeine in the evenings. Sleeping on your back, with your head slightly elevated, will also help to keep the circulation moving freely around your body.

“Sleep and rest allows our body to detoxify and rejuvenate, and this is important for the periorbital area,” Dr Zamani adds. “Dark circles can be more prominent with lack of sleep because the skin has not had time to re-set and the blood vessels in the lower eyelid become more dilated.”

Blue light can also impact your sleep cycle and suppress melatonin, a natural hormone in the body, whose levels rise in the evening to help promote sleep. So keep your phone or tablet on night mode setting around the clock and try to create what environmental psychologist Lee Chambers calls a ‘digital sunset’ by “shutting down your devices at a set time each evening and storing them away.”

And try sleeping with an eye mask if your curtains let in light - Slip has an array of different styles from plain to patterned, including the new Zodiac line to match your star sign.

Slip Zodiac Pure Silk Sleep Mask

2. Restore moisture to the area

Not only will water flush out toxins like salt (which has been linked to causing eye bags), it also increases blood flow and plumps out dehydrated skin, which can appear more thin and fragile. “Hydrated skin is plump and therefore creates more volume, making dark circles less noticeable,” says Dr Zamani.

Another option is to look for hyaluronic acid, a molecule that can hold 1,000 times its weight in water, in the roll call of skincare ingredients on the back of your eye serum or cream.

Good options include L'Oreal Paris 2.5% Hyaluronic Eye Serum and the Beauty Pie Triple Hyaluronic Acid Elastic Lifting Eye Serum, which contains different molecular weights of hyaluronic acid so its plumping effects can be felt from skin's surface, down to the deeper layers.

Or for a five-day transformative bootcamp, try MZ Skin Brightening & Hydrating Eye Ampoules. There's a daytime or night-specific cocktail of ingredients to dab onto under-eyes, including hyaluronic acid and moisture-locking ceramides.

L'Oréal Paris 2.5% Hyaluronic Acid Eye Serum

Beauty Pie Triple Hyaluronic Acid Elastic Lifting Eye Serum

MZ Skin Brightening & Hydrating Eye Ampoules

3. Invest in a retinol eye cream

We all know retinol for its impressive anti-ageing abilities, but according to clinical facialist Kate Kerr, the gold standard ingredient can also be a godsend when it comes to treating dark circles.

“A retinol eye serum is necessary to help stabilise melanocytes (the pigment-forming cells in skin that contribute to dark circles) in order to prevent hyperpigmentation. It also thickens the dermis, improves texture, smooths lines and hides purple skin tones” she says.

We recommend the Crystal Retinal Ceramide Eye by Medik8, which comes in three strengths (3, 6 and 10) so you can gradually work your way up the ladder. Medik8 leans on retinaldehyde, a powerful form of vitamin A, to jump start cell turnover and improve skin thickness while ceramides help to prevent dry flakes. Ease yourself in gradually, applying the lowest strength a couple of times a week initially.

Also good is Paula's Choice Clinical Ceramide-Enriched Firming Eye Cream, which combines retinol with a blend of five skin-plumping ceramides, while Murad Retinal ReSculpt Eye Lift Treatment is powered by slow-release retinal for effective results with less chance of irritation.

Murad Retinal ReSculpt Eye Lift Treatment

Medik8 Crystal Retinal Ceramide Eye

Paula’s Choice Clinical Ceramide-Enriched Firming Eye Cream

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4. Introduce caffeine into your skincare

Caffeine doesn't just help us to feel more awake, it can help us look more awake, too. When applied to skin, caffeine encourages vasoconstriction – constricting of the blood vessels under our eyes – which can lead to a reduction in inflammation and dark circles.

A good option is The Ordinary Caffeine Solution 5% + EGCG, which boasts a high concentration of caffeine and skin-brightening EGCG (epigallocatechin gallatyl glucoside), a potent antioxidant found in green tea. Or try SkinCeuticals A.G.E Advanced Eye, where caffeine is joined by a synthetic peptide blend called Matrixyl 3000 to improve skin firmness.

The Ordinary Caffeine Solution 5% + EGCG

SkinCeuticals A.G.E. Advanced Eye

5. Chill the area

Cold temperatures take down swelling and kickstart the circulation, which, in turn, dispels toxins that contribute to ashy-looking skin. “More nutrient-rich blood means toxins are flushed away and water retention is reduced, leaving skin looking plumper and more radiant within a matter of minutes," says Ada Ooi, facialist and founder of 001 Skincare.

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Cryotherapy-inspired tools offer immediate relief and make light work of alleviating puffiness and dark circles. The 001 Skincare Cryopress Ice Facial Massager sustains a temperature of -8 to 2.5°C, so it’s always poised to deflate early morning eye puff, while the 111Skin Cryo Sculpting Globes have an ergonomic shape to comfortably cup the under-eye area.

001 Skincare London CRYOpress

111Skin Cryo Sculpting Globes

6. Check your diet for deficiencies

A vitamin-rich skincare regime is always a good idea, but there are certain vitamins that can be especially beneficial to the skin around your eyes.

“I always recommend a serum that is rich in vitamin C for clients with dark circles,” says Kate. “It offers powerful antioxidant protection that fights free-radical damage caused by stress, which can result in hyperpigmentation,” she continues.

In terms of deficiencies in your diet, dark circles have been linked to a vitamin B12 deficiency. Try incorporating more oily fish, eggs and milk if you are lacking in this vitamin, or try a dietary supplement.

7. You could consider polynucleotides or filler

If you've tried every at-home remedy but haven't felt a visible difference, it may be worth considering an aesthetic treatment that targets the loss of volume under the eyes. It can be a safe and effective treatment when in the hands of a qualified and knowledgable professional.

“The fat pads under our eyes shrink over time leading to a loss of volume,” explains Kate. “This can create a hollow area that, in turn, casts a shadow under the eye."

The buzziest new treatment for this area is polynucleotides, commonly referred to a salmon sperm, which are injected in the skin's surface layer to improve the look of hollow under-eyes. Once there, “polynucleotides stimulate our own cells to produce some of the things that we lose with ageing, namely the fibroblast cells, which are responsible for producing collagen and elastin,” explains Dr. Ash Soni, a plastic and reconstructive surgeon, and founder of The Soni Clinic.

GLAMOUR's associate beauty director has tried it - see her before and after shots and read her verdict here.

Polynucleotides are a natural alternative to tear trough filler – another treatment that targets dark circles. According to Kate, the filler lifts the skin and slightly diminishes the shadow-causing hollow. “Additionally, filler will help to hide any purple skin tone due to leaky blood vessels,” she adds.

8. Brighten the area with highlighter

According to MAC Senior Artist, Debbie Finnegan, a bit of brightening goes a long way when it comes to covering dark circles. “If you have subtle under eye discolouration and need just a touch of brightening, try adding a highlighter like MAC Prep + Prime Highlighter to your normal skin routine,” Debbie says.

Mac Prep + Prime Highlighter

Rare Beauty Positive Light Liquid Luminizer

“Apply a few dots starting from the inner corner of the eye right next to the tear duct; this is usually the deepest area and needs the most brightening,” she continues. “Pat the product in lightly using a ring finger or a flat brush, letting the product disappear approximately half way out from the lower eye.”

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9. Get to grips with concealing and colour correcting

For those genetically pre-disposed to the blue under-eye circles, concealing and colour correcting is a reliable strategy.

Peach tones will counterbalance the blue-hue on light skin, while yellow and bisque hues are effective on medium skin tones and orange is best for dark skin. Laura Mercier's Secret Camouflage Concealer and Bobbi Brown's Creamy Corrector are great for this or, Debbie suggests, choose a makeup palette that contains a range of shades.

Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage Concealer

Bobbi Brown Creamy Corrector

“Choose a palette with cool and warm shades of concealer so you can address all skin concerns easily and effectively,” she says. We love MAC's Studio Fix Conceal & Correct Palette. “Apply the colour correcting shades first, and add a touch of concealer to mask it.”

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While a makeup brush can provide precision, it's a good idea to ditch the bristles when it comes to concealing dark circles. “The warmth of fingertips helps to heat and melt the concealing product, helping it to blend seamlessly into the skin,” advises Debbie.

A setting powder helps to keep your bags concealed all day long without the need for touch-ups. We recommend pairing a Beautyblender with a light-reflecting powder like Charlotte Tilbury Airbrush Brightening Flawless Finish.

Charlotte Tilbury Airbrush Flawless Finish Powder

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10. Wear SPF around the eyes

The under eyes may not be the first place you think of for SPF but it's a must-do if you want to shield the delicate skin from UV rays and avoid hyperpigmentation. For ease, choose an eye cream that contains zinc oxide or titanium dioxide at an SPF30 or above, as both sunscreens are gentle enough for use around the eyes.

Hello Sunday The One For Your Eyes Mineral Eye Cream SPF50 is a good option for both your dark circles and your wallet.

Medik8 Advanced Day Protect 15ml

Hello Sunday The One For Your Eyes Eye Cream SPF50 15ml

11. Take anti-histamines

If you think that your eye puffiness and bags may be a result of allergies, contact a doctor. It's worth considering that allergies can cause inflammation that leads to swelling under the eyes, so by taking antihistamines, they can help reduce those allergy symptoms which include eye puffiness.

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12. Try the tea bag treatment

This very DIY method involves applying chilled tea bags, (particularly green tea and chamomile) on to your closed eyelids for 15 minutes as you lay down and rest. They can provide relief on dark circles due to their inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

13. Embrace them

It's important to recognise that dark circles are a natural aspect of many of our appearances. Realistically, they don't always need fixing. It's as simple as that. The more you embrace them, the less of a bother they will appear to you. Win-win.