You only need to take the briefest look at someone's ‘Thailand’ highlight on Instagram to catch a glimpse of the iconic, mountainous green landscape of Chiang Mai. One of the most popular cities in the whole of the Southeast Asian country, and the birthplace of my half-Thai husband's mother, there was no doubt about it; my first visit to the country had to be all about this blissfully picturesque capital of the North.
As we pulled up to the Four Seasons Chiang Mai, and despite having spent much of the fifteen hour flight eagerly scrolling through endless photos and videos of our upcoming destination, I was hit with an immediate sense of overwhelm.
Looking straight through the open-structure reception I felt dwarfed by what can only be described as the most magnificent, picture-perfect view, almost hazy in the midday sun but no less breathtaking as bursts of bold green leaves faultlessly framed the seemingly miles-long view out onto the city's mountainous scene.
Such jaw-dropping vistas would turn out to be a recurring theme at this verdant haven, and as we were guided to our room - with a welcome gift garland of jasmine hanging round each of our necks - we only needed to share a quick glance between us to know exactly what the other was thinking; we'd hit the jackpot.
Having got married just a few short weeks prior, and with our big African safari ‘official’ honeymoon several months away, this was already shaping up to be the post-wedding retreat neither of us knew we needed.
Total tranquility - and without a spreadsheet or seating chart in sight - when we shut the door to our ‘Rice Terrace Pavilion’ room and stepped out onto our own private veranda complete with swing-sofa and views across the resort's central rice fields, I took what felt like the deepest, most satisfying breath I'd taken for months.
Suddenly those rumours that this is set to be the location for season 3 of The White Lotus were all making sense…
Our filming location predictions are in.
The room, as with all of their ‘pavillion’ suites ('Garden Pavillions' and ‘Upper Garden Pavillions’ being set across two stories amongst the tropical gardens whilst the ‘Rice Terrace Pavillions’ are dotted, unsurprisingly, around the rice fields), was bursting with traditional accents in the style of the Lanna Kingdom and thoughtfully-chosen local art whilst still catering to every modern need, providing a perfect balance of authentic Thai design and contemporary convenience.
A full fruit bowl, enormous wardrobe and generous dirty-clothes basket - the contents of which would be washed and returned at lightening speed - all served to make us feel more at-home than any other hotel room we've been lucky enough to stay in.
That welcome feeling of homeliness is one I so often lack when, well, away from home.
Call me a typical Taurus, but my sign's endless desire for the finer things in life (i.e. sensational holidays) often puts me in a mental battle with my equally-strong Taurean homebody reputation that craves comfort and security. Of course we're also the zodiac's most stubborn sign, so if anyone's going to find a way to satisfy both needs, it's me. Which is why I'm so shocked it's taken me thirty years to visit Thailand.
Known as the ‘land of smiles’ I perhaps should've expected a warm welcome, but nothing could've prepared me for the level of hosting at the Four Seasons Chiang Mai. Despite boasting 98 different Pavillion and Villa Residence offerings, I think I would've struggled to find one member of staff - led by Anthony, their faultless resort manager - who didn't know every guest by name.
Not only that, the hotel's impeccable team of hosts knew my husband and I as a team, and if I were jumping in one of their buggies to be taken to the pool/bar/spa they would ask “is Mr Nicholson joining us?”, before reminding me that I had a treatment later that day in the spa at 4:30 and a dinner reservation at 8. They knew more about my itinerary than I did.
As we rode around the retreat, every single member of staff who we passed - from reception to chefs, gardeners, rice planters, spa therapists, management and housekeeping - would each stop what they were doing, smile, bow and say “sawadee kah” (if they were female) or “sawadee kraap” (with a soft r, if they were male) with their palms pressed together, prayer-like.
Far from a Four Seasons extra, however, this is the traditional greeting across Thailand as a sign of acknowledgement and respect. Putting our own half-smile-and-nod acknowledgement - if your lucky - to shame, I found myself quickly falling in love with this warm, welcoming way of life.
As I arrived at the spa for that 4:30 appointment, I realised I'd been booked in for a traditional Thai massage. Not knowing what that meant, it didn't take me long to realise that this wasn't going to be one of those relaxing, aromatherapy-oil laden massages I was used to.
I was handed a white cotton uniform to put on before my therapist began the ancient massage technique; stretching the muscles with applied pressure along the body’s main energy lines via acupressure and assisted yoga postures.
When she climbed onto the bed and knelt on the back of my thighs I was definitely surprised, but she proved once again that the staff at this place knew me better than I know myself, as the way she pulled my arms up, arched my back and lifted my entire torso off the bed with her strength, my post-long haul flight body loosened up more than any oil-based massage could have ever promised to.
Many of the resort's other activities are aimed similarly at physical wellness, with a tennis court, yoga barn and fully-equipped health club just waiting for you should the desire arise. Others are slightly less physical - although by no means sedentary - with buffalo bathing, rice planting, fabric dying and brilliant pottery classes on offer nearby in the Chaan Baan.
One of our favourite activities - perhaps ever - however, was a private cooking class. Hosted at the hotel's Rim Tai kitchen, a thorough programme has been designed by the in-house culinary team.
After a tour of the herb garden with the incredibly talented - and very funny - head chef, Suwattana, where we picked everything from lemon basil and lemongrass to kaffir lime leaves and coriander root, we stopped by the traditional Thai spirit house to receive a blessing before being shown quick demos of how to prep, chop, ground, sauté, season and plate each dish at the Chef's table.
Three hours, and endless laughs, later, my husband and I were sitting down to a four-course feast of vegetable and lemon basil soup, summer rolls with a chilli dipping sauce, vegetable fried rice, and a spicy papaya salad - the fact that it was all made from scratch by our very own hands rendering it all the more delicious.
Of course, we didn't cook every meal we ate during our trip - that would have dramatically decreased our time spent lying by that exceptional pool. Instead we sampled, and (spoiler alert) adored, each of the retreat's three main restaurants.
Rim Tai Kitchen, of course, hosting the cooking classes and an dramatic event space for group dinners, while North restaurant served up age-old grilling traditions via open-flame cooking, with 70% of the menu cooked at the beautiful open fire pit and an excellent bar with the most divinely smoky cocktails.
Our favourite of the three, however, has to be Khao, host to the resort's traditionally Thai delights with an enormous menu celebrating the country's culinary diversity, splitting dishes up by area and presented in vibrant, contemporary style. There's not a single thing I ate there, over a few nights, which I haven't yearned for since, but the idea of perhaps never eating that beef satay again cuts particularly deep.
This restaurant also play's host to breakfast, where you are greeted by the most incredible buffet-style feast you could ever dream of pre-noon; a blindingly-colourful fruit corner, a patisserie stand, a counter where fresh pancakes and waffles were being made, an open kitchen specifically for every variety of eggs, a work bench full of all the ingredients for the best full English of your life, and - of course - a smorgasbord of traditional Thai cuisine boasting fried rice, noodles, chicken dishes and skewers.
Unsurprisingly, those rushed, slightly-stale croissant breakfasts at my desk have failed to hit the spot ever since.
Prices start at £502/night and flights are available via Bangkok from most major UK airports.
For more from Glamour UK's Fashion Editor Charlie Teather, follow her on Instagram @charlieteather.
